Think “potato” and usually a medium-sized oblong shape with rough brown skin and white flesh comes to mind. Those are Russet Potatoes. But prowl around the produce section of your favorite market and you’ll find other varieties, too, most commonly Yukon Gold, Red Skins and New or Creamer Potatoes as well as the more unusual but now available, French Fingerlings.

So a potato is not just a potato. Depending on how you plan to use them in a recipe may determine the best variety to choose. Will you bake, boil, cream, mash or use as an ingredient in potato salad, soups or stews?

The familiar Russets are floury, which makes them good for baking, mashing, roasting and French frying. The Yukon Gold seems to be in all markets at the moment. Canadian bred, it is a medium potato with a rich smooth tan skin and a rich creamy yellow flesh. Somewhat waxy, it does not become flaky when boiled but holds its shape. It is also a good choice for frying.

The smooth red skin gives Red Skin potatoes their name. They are dark red with deep eyes and white waxy flesh. They can be used interchangeably with the Yukon Gold for boiling, frying and salads. These beauties do not always have to be peeled for salads and frying. Simply scrub and remove the eyes.

Similar to Reds, but much smaller, New Potatoes are at peak season in the spring. They are generally round and may have red or brown skins (the red ones are also known as Red Creamers) but either variety is delicious. In fact, they are delicious as a vegetable in their own right. They are firm and need no peeling or intensive scrubbing. In fact, if the skin is to be discarded, it can be easily rubbed off after cooking.

Red Creamers ought to be cooked whole. That’s when they are at their most delicious; all the flavor gets locked under the skin and not peeled away. Imagine how pretty little red-skinned potatoes look when left whole in a stew, or served piping hot tossed with a little butter and fresh parsley. If they are larger and need to be cut, they somehow lose their effect, but unpeeled and sliced they make a perfect potato salad.

French Fingerlings are interesting little potatoes. Small and oblong in shape, they have a smooth light purple skin, and the interior is yellow with pink stripes when cut across. Cook these whole in the skin, too. I have found, by the way, that any cooked potato will slice more easily if still warm.

Purple Potatoes, anyone? I saw them in the market today and on seeing my incredulous look, the produce manager cut into one for me – the flesh as well as the skin is deep purple. The taste is unique; sweeter than most waxy potatoes. Use them as any red skin potato. No, I did not cook any. I think my family would balk at purple potatoes.

Baked Russet Potatoes

Use medium potatoes; about per pound. Simply scrub thoroughly, make a 2-inch slit in the top and bake on a bare rack in a 425 degree oven for 1 hour. To serve, squeeze the ends together to open the slit. Slip in a pat of butter and serve with sour cream, chopped chives and shredded Cheddar cheese.

Russet

Garlic Mash

2 pounds Russet potatoes, 5-6 medium

1/4 to 1 1/2 cups milk

2 tablespoons EACH unsalted and salted butter

2 large cloves garlic, minced

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives

Wash, peel and quarter potatoes. Place in a saucepan and cover with water. Cook until very tender, about 25 minutes. Drain, return to heat and shake over low heat for a few seconds to dry out.

Mash potatoes in a blow. Heat together the milk and butter and stir, over low heat until butter is melted. Pour over mashed potatoes and mix until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the chives. Serves 4-6.

Fried Yukon Gold Potatoes with Oregano and Parmesan

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 1/2 pounds (about 5)

1 large onion

3/4 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt and black pepper to taste

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Peel potatoes and halve lengthwise then slice crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices. Peel onion and halve lengthwise then slice lengthwise into 1/4-inch thick slices.

Heat oil in a 12-inch non-stick skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add potato and onion slices, and oregano and reduce heat to moderate. Cook, covered, stirring occasionally until almost tender, about 10 minutes.

Remove lid and continue to cook, turning the potatoes several times, until browned and crusty, about 10 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with cheese when ready to serve. Serves 4.

Hot German-Style Potato Salad

2 pounds Red Skin or Yukon Gold potatoes

2 tablespoons vinegar

3 strips bacon and bacon drippings

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 tablespoon capers, finely chopped

Fry the bacon until crisp. Remove the bacon from the pan, drain on paper towels and crumble. Save the drippings.

Scrub the potatoes and pick out the eyes. Cook halved or quartered until just tender. Cool until just able to be handled; peel or leave unpeeled. Slice.

While the potatoes are cooking, mix 3 tablespoons of bacon drippings, vinegar, onion, salt and pepper. Add to the warm potato slices. Toss gently. Add the chopped capers and crumbled bacon. Toss again until just mixed. Serve warm. Serves 4.

NOTE: If bacon drippings are a forbidden fat, substitute olive oil and use imitation bacon bits instead of real bacon.

Danish-Style Caramelized Creamer Potatoes

1 1/2 pounds new potatoes, with red or brown skins

2 tablespoons butter

2 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Clean the potatoes by gently rubbing under running water; boil whole until just tender. In a frying pan that is large enough to take the potatoes in a single layer, melt the butter and sugar together and stir over medium heat until the mixture has turned a rich golden caramel color.

Rinse the potatoes quickly under cold water and then add to the mixture in pan.

Cover the pan and shake to agitate the potatoes until they are glazed and shiny. Serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

The Danes traditionally serve these with roast chicken.

French Fingerling Potato Salad

2 pounds French Fingerling or small new potatoes, unpeeled

1/3 cup Italian salad dressing

3 green onions with tops

3 tablespoons fresh parsley

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/4 cup yogurt

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Crumbled bacon or imitation bacon bits for garnish (about 2 strips or 2 tablespoons)

Cook the potatoes until just tender. Drain and allow them to cool just enough to handle. Do not peel. Slice crosswise (to show off their pink stripes) into a salad bowl.

Mix together the salad dressing, onion and parsley and pour over the warm potatoes. Toss gently. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

When ready to serve, stir together the mayonnaise and yogurt; fold into potato mixture. Spoon into a lettuce-lined salad bowl. Serves 4.

Delicious served with cold roast lamb or cold cuts.