When I was growing up, Lent was a time of deprivation. Grownups took the idea of fasting a lot more seriously than we seem to these days. The idea was to eat only one full meal a day, the contents of which could be spread around during the day to make up various small meals. Fish was eaten instead of meat on both Wednesdays and Fridays.

We children, needing all the nourishment we could get for our growing bodies, were not required to fast, so we simply gave up desserts, chocolate; and not teasing the cat or pinching our siblings, in the hope (of our parents) that we would develop better habits and give up that sort of mischief for good. But we did eat lots of fish.

I originally came from a part of the country where the price of shrimp has always been “out of sight.” If we ever had shrimp, a few minute tidbits would be served on a bed of lettuce and so smothered in cocktail sauce they looked like a lot. And it was too special to eat during Lent when folks were supposed to be holding back. But here it seems shrimp is sold on almost every street corner and at prices not much more than the price of eggs. That which is considered a delicacy by most Americans is for us commonplace, but no less delicious.

Peggy Stanford

So whom are we kidding when we eat shrimp (as fish) during Lent? We are giving up nothing, nil, nada. So even if I am indulging rather than depriving myself, my motive for these recipes is simply to share what I consider terrific shrimp dishes, and what better time to eat them than during Lent? Yes, shrimp ARE fish; shellfish. Hurrah!

Shrimp Creole

1 1/2 pounds raw shrimp whole shrimp

2 cups water

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onions

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped green pepper

1/2 cup fresh parsley

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce

1/4 teaspoon Cayenne pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup canned chopped tomatoes, drained

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 bay leaf

Parsley to garnish

Boiled rice

Shell and clean the shrimp, setting aside the shells and heads. Refrigerate the shrimp while you make the sauce.

Place the heads and shells in a saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain the liquid and reserve; discard the shells and heads.

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the onions and cook over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes until tender. Add the celery, green pepper, and garlic; cook for five minutes. Stir in parsley, Worcestershire, and Cayenne and continue to cook for five more minutes. Stir in the wine. Add tomatoes, 1 1/2 cups of reserved shrimp stock, salt, sugar, and bay leaf and return to boiling.

Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Allow to cool slightly. Pour soup in blender and puree until smooth. Return puree to saucepan, adjust seasonings, and add raw shrimp. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until shrimp turn pink and curl. Serve garnished with parsley.

Serve over rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Hot Macaroni Shrimp Salad

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound jumbo shrimp, shelled, deveined, and cut in half lengthwise

1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes

1 cup celery, sliced on the diagonal

1 medium clove garlic, minced

1 package (1 ounce) herb salad-dressing mix

1 cup sour cream

1 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup water

1 cup hot cooked macaroni shells

Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Sauté the shrimp, tomatoes, and celery until shrimp is cooked, about 3 minutes. In a large serving bowl, combine dressing mix, sour cream, mayonnaise and water. Stir in hot pasta. Spoon shrimp mixture on top. Serves 4.

Sweet and Sour Shrimp

2 pounds peeled shrimp

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 green pepper, cut into chunks

1/4 cup melted butter or margarine

1 can (15 1/2 ounces) pineapple chunks in heavy syrup

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup cherry tomatoes

Hot cooked rice for 6

1/2 cup toasted, slivered almonds

If shrimp are large, cat in half lengthwise. In large skillet, cook shrimp, onion and green pepper in butter until onions are limp, but not brown, and shrimp is pink and curls, about three minutes. Drain pineapple and reserve syrup.

In a large jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine pineapple syrup, vinegar, cornstarch, sugar, mustard, soy sauce, and salt and shake to mix.

Add to cooked shrimp, onions and peppers. Cook, stirring constantly, until liquid is clear and thickened. Add pineapple, and tomato halves. Heat through.

Combine cooked rice and toasted almonds. Spoon on shrimp mixture. Serves 6.

Creole Shrimp Sauce for Pasta

2 tablespoons minced green onion

2 tablespoons minced onion

3 tablespoons minced green bell pepper

2 tablespoons minced celery

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon flour

1 can Creole-style stewed tomatoes

1 vegetables bouillon cube

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup hot water

6 to 8 ounces cooked shelled shrimp

Tabasco Sauce to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

Sauté onion, green onion, bell pepper and celery in butter until vegetables are tender. Remove from heat. Sprinkle with flour.

Stir to coat vegetables. Crush stewed tomatoes; stir into mixture. Dissolve bouillon cube in hot water and add. Bring to a boil. Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Add shrimp. Heat through. Makes 4 to 6 servings.